Tuesday, December 10
Drive to Santa Monica
Wednesday, Dec 11 — In flight
Depart LAX at 3:30p on American Airlines flight 991
Thursday, Dec 12 — Buenos Aires
Land In Buenos Aires at 8:32am. Taxi over to Edificio Concord Recoleta. Head out for a lunch and then ice creams at Rapanui. Dinner at La Carnicería (Thames 2317, C1425FIG CABA, Argentina)
Friday, Dec 13 — El Gato farm
We drove into el campo (Argentine countryside) to the El Gato farm at 34°40'11.55"S 60°12'42.21"W. After settling in, we take a walk around the property and find an old Model A Ford in the nearby carriage house; it all seems very vintage. Next door, a massive magnolia is in bloom. El Campo Farm — At one point, we drive to see the cows and wheat harvest. Great dinner of cannelloni, in excellent tomato sauce where thin crepes were used instead of noodles. It was fantastic!
Saturday, Dec 14 — Buenos Aires
Asado BBQ with chimichurri sauce. In the afternoon, I am reluctant to leave, but we end up driving back to Buenos Aries. Excellent dinner at the Mishiguene, the Jewish restaurant and No.20 Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019 Chefs’ Choice Award 2019 (Tomás Kalika)
Sunday, Dec 15 — Buenos Aires
With Eduardo’s mom, we take the Buenos Aires: Hop-On Hop-Off City Bus Tour and head to La Boca. I wasn’t expecting much from the bus tour, but it was great to ride around town in an elevated bus. Afterward, we walk around town.
Monday, Dec 16 — Buenos Aires
Long walk with Tammy & Eduardo. We walk all the way to Plaza Dorrego and enjoy late afternoon ambiance of the square with its share of al dining and interesting people watching. We eventually end up at the superb EL Hornero (de San Telmo) empanada bar, in the Mercado San Telmo, in the artsy San Telmo neighborhood. We check a tango show after that and end up late night at a Tango workshop party.
Tuesday, Dec 17 — Uruguay / BA
Tammy & Eduardo bail today to Mar del Plata. So I decide to visit Uruguay. I hail a taxi and we drive to the ferry station. After exiting immigration and waiting about 25 minutes we board the noon Buquebus ferry to Uruguay and sail to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. After a long day, I take the ferry back to Buenos Aires and have a nice 11:30 dinner at the famous Parrilla Don Julio steak house
Wednesday, Dec 18 — Buenos Aires
In the morning, I visit the famed Recoleta Cemetery with its massive above ground vault graves. Paraná Delta near Tigre; tango show at night
Thursday, Dec 19 — Puerto Iguazú
Depart Edificio Concord Recoleta. Tráfic Intenso! JetSMART flight JA 3394 departs Aeropuerto El Palomar EPA at 2:10pm and arrives to Cataratas del Iguazú International Airport IGR at 3:57pm. I take a taxi to the Panoramic Grand hotel, and get a nice balcony room, which I booked online, after some disagreement when they give me a tiny, balcony-less room. Swim time, walk around town.
Friday, Dec 20 — Iguazú Falls
I tour the Argentine Iguazú Falls for the full day. it is a breathtaking and emotional experience that at one point nearly brings me to tears. I’ve never seen so much water in my life; it is a natural amusement park that would rival and perhaps overtake an human-made version of fun. I walk and tour all day; it is quite hot, but I don’t care. At one point, my phone nearly runs out of batteries, during my Strava recording below, so I seek refuge in an A/C restaurant, have lunch and simultaneously charge my phone with an overly kind cashier, who keeps an eye on the charging device whilst I eat, thus ensuring the integrity of the Strava recording:
In the evening, I hail a taxi, and cross the border into Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil, the gateway the the Brazilian Iguaçu Falls.