Saturday, Oct 23 — Seoul
What a pleasant surprise! This is where I am now and it is great. My San Francisco friend Stephania lives here and has graciously offered me a place in the capital city. And this is what I find… Seoul has Soul: Modern city, spicy and nurturing food, brilliant people and extremely safe. I am content. It is autumn here, and I feel cold and see my breath for the first time in eons. The leaves are turning all colors of the rainbow and there are enough temples, mountains, rivers and cafes to explore for months. My film consumption allows Fuji stock to rise a point of two. We take a trip to the South-east of the country and visit more stunning temples and tombs and I can’t tell you the color of these leaves: Red, orange, yellow, green. Being a California kid, I am just not used to this foliage beauty. The sky is deep blue and everything is perfect. Unfortunately, I am leaving on a ferry for Beijing in several days to see Luke, the Great Wall, Tibet and the Middle Kingdom one last time… But that is a whole new adventure. Goodness. TBC…
Saturday, Oct 30 — Bulguksa
We visit Bulguksa, one of Korea’s most important Buddhist temples, originally constructed in the 8th century during the Silla Kingdom and later restored. The temple complex is known for its stone terraces, bridges, and the pagodas Dabotap and Seokgatap, representing key elements of Korean Buddhist architecture.
Clear blue skies and brisk but pleasant autumn weather. The temple grounds are framed by deep red maple foliage at peak color, contrasting with the pale stonework and wooden halls. Paths and stairways wind through the complex, with views across the surrounding hills. We tour the main halls, pagodas, and stone staircases viewed throughout the site. It's an awesome day!
We spend the night in a local hotel with heated floors, my first experience with this heating method. It is toasty.
Sunday, Oct 31 — Tongdosa
Visit to Tongdosa, one of Korea’s Three Jewel Temples, representing the Buddha. Founded in 646 during the Silla period, it is notable for housing relics of the Buddha and for lacking a central Buddha statue in its main hall, an unusual feature in Korean Buddhism.
Similar autumn conditions continue: crisp air, blue skies, and vivid red maple leaves throughout the temple grounds. The setting is quieter and more wooded, with long paths connecting halls and shrines. We visit the temple halls, courtyards, and forested paths explored across the complex. I enjoy watching the other tourist.
Monday, Nov 1 — Night bus to Seoul
We buy tickets for the Hanil Express (한일), a high-speed bus traveling overnight from Gyeongju to Seoul. It features comfortable 1–2 VIP seating, similar to an airplane.
From: Gyeongju 경주
To: Seoul Gyeongbu Express Bus Terminal 서울경부
Distance: 362.7 km
Fare: ₩ 28,100
Departure: October 31, 2004 @ 11:40pm
Seat: 05
Ticket no.: 04079341
Tuesday, Nov 2 — Tian Ren
All aboard! The MV Tian Ren is now leaving the port of Incheon, Korea on a direct to Tianjin, China. As the ship leaves port, the karaoke bars, casinos and bars open and the passengers begin their vices.
Hours pass.
“Come on, take it!”
“Nope.”
“Yessss. Try one more...”
The drunk Koreans do it to me again. I attept escape, but my being awake at these god-foresaken hours attests to my commitment-- in their eyes anyhow.
“Here. Take It.”
“Noooo...”
But all too soon my defense falters and I am clutching another deadly round of that wicked sujo-- the kingpin grandmaster of all Korean booze... deadly and effective everytime. Bleechk. The boat is rocking and this volatile liquor is disolving the paper cup in my paper faster than I can think-- I have to act fast. My salvation will be the two stunningly cute Koreans gals to me left. I pass one of them a wink and she giggles. Suddenly all eyes and hearts are on the girl as she laughs. I fake the big gulp and toss the vile poison harmlessly over my left shoulder. It spills on the wall behind and is camoflaged by years of other gross stains on this ailing boat. I run.
“Where you going? Just one moooooooorrrrreee!”
The voice trials off and I feel sorry for them; the friendly monstes are going to feel like proper shit tomorrow. I gulp two litters of Korean mineral water and pass out. Well, at least I am going to pass Chinese customs tomorrow.
Tian Ren (boat from Seoul to Tianjin)
26,463 tons 186.5 meters length 24.8 meters beam