I heard these buildings were finally finished. When I was here the work had been halted, apparently the budget had run out or there was a political deadlock halting progress.
RE: Typical Street Food
Hi Brian, I read your travel journal on Myanmar with great interest because I’m from there… I’m especially disappointed to hear that the food was terrible — this is one area people visiting Myanmar have very little knowledge of. And, guide books like Lonely Planet don’t point to where good and authentic food can be found because they haven’t done the right research. If you ask me about our food, I would say that it is very subtle and has many varieties. Burmese people like their food to have a range of tastes from spicy to bittery. If you tried the street food in Myanmar then you are bound to be disappointed — it’s not like Thailand or Malaysia. When I was young, I used to enjoy getting snacks from the street vendors. Nowadays, people don’t trust the oil they use and the hygiene of course. Since you live in San Francisco, I suggest you check out the typical food that we eat at Burma Superstar — try the authentic stuff. I know it’s a pretty good restaurant because I lived in the area for 3 years! George Orwell didn’t know a thing about world cuisine because he came from Britain… . sad but true. Next time you plan on visiting Yangon do let me know — I’ll point you to the right restaurants :-)
Cheers -- -- Thurain
The biggest mistake Mazda ever achieved was producing multitudes of the otherwise worthless vehicle pictured above. In that no one bought any of these cars in European and American markets, the end result was disastrous for the company; some analysts even expected that Mazda would sink and cease to exists as a result. Yet, somewhere in the bowels of the company, alongside the same stupidity that created this machine, came a stroke of luck. Someone somewhere convinced a government to take the entire line of this otherwise worthless car and buy it. And that is the story of how Myanmar ended up with thousands of these leaded-gas only, stinky, cramped, yet reliable people movers.
It may look like nothing special, but this receipt represents a memory from the BKK > YAN > DAC > CCU series of flights on beloved Biman Bangladesh Airlines. Being an open ticket, Biman required confirmation of each subsequent flight 72 hours in advance. In the local Biman branch in Yangon, the airline staff asked to see my Bangladeshi visa before they could confirm the next YAN > DAC flight segment. In agreeance, I taxied to the Bangladeshi embassy where a staff member asked to see proof of my onward ticket before they would issue me a visa. I rolled back to the Biman office and stated I could not receive a Bangladeshi visa without a confirmed onward air ticket. To my dismay, the Biman staff contested, “How can we confirm your onward ticket without proof of a Bangladeshi visa?” It was a fair question and one I pondered all the while back to the Bangladeshi embassy. I explained this dilemma to the Bangladeshi embassy staff. Their response: “It is forbidden to grant a non-Myanamar citizen a Bangladeshi visa in Yangon without proof of air travel.” Frustrated, I challenged the embassy staff over a cup of tea. Eventually it was proposed that a 10-day visa would be granted, at the cost of USD $100. I gladly forked over the dough. Biman Airlines subsequently confirmed my next flight. Later that night my hotel staff informed me I had a visitor. To my surprise it was the staff member from Biman; he had come by to take my out and show me that Yangon did not—contrary to popular belief—have a boring nightlife. We went to some elite hotel clubs and bars, saw Filipino bands playing the latest pop hits, and drank good beer. At one of the hotel clubs I saw some American marines dancing to the music. I couldn’t believe the hospitality of the airline.
Myanmar (Burma) was where I spent monsoon June. What a magical country! Steeped in tradition and culture the country is as beautiful as Southeast Asia gets.
While in Myanmar, I visited Bagan— the famed ancient Buddhist landscape with over 4000 temples and stupas, Inlay Lake (quite possible the most serene and chill place on earth), Mandalay— but no Mandalay Bay (sorry Las Vegas) and Yangon— the green and peaceful capital. One great thing about a fascist government: Horn honking is punishable by fines, making Yangon the quietest capital city in all of Asia! I wish others would heed Myanmar on this issue— noise pollution outweighs all other types in Asia.
I guess my only complaint about Myanmar was its food. It was terrible, worse than what the communists serve up in Cuba! Even George Orwell states in his 1927 novel Burmese Days that the food is “hideous.” The way I understood it, oil (cooking oil) is viewed as a sign of wealth, and they would pour and fry and sizzle that grease so much it would make Shalimar (the Pakistani restaurant in the Tenderloin of San Francisco) seem like eating a green salad. The hygiene was terrible too, worse than India, I dare say. We all got hit, even the 48-year old Austrian who hadn’t had diarrhea since 1985 suffered a bout. Then again, I guess you could say Myanmar primed my stomach for what was next to come… India. Well, at least there is Burma Super Star back home on Clement Street in SF where I can enjoy California-cum-Myanmar food in air-con luxury. Can’t wait to eat that Mandalay salmon again!
Yangon is one of the most exotic places I’ve been. I guess when you have a place that is the meeting and mixing grounds for cultures as intense as Chinese, Indian, and SE Asian, you are going to have a bizarre place. Throw in a fascist government that squanders cash and doesn’t repair any public works, and a bit of rain during rush hour and you have complete chaos. The sanitary conditions have been terrible, at best, to say the least, but locals don’t seem to notice. Everything is always wet. Nothing dries (at least during monsoon June.) At the same time, the vibe is quite nice with some of the most charming people this side of Kampala.
After hours of back and forth between the Bangladeshi embassy and the Biman Bangladeshi Airlines office, I finally get my 10-day Bangladesh visa for $100. I pack up and leave my hotel at 3:30pm and take a taxi to the Aung Mingalar Highway Bus Station where I board the Yè Thu Aung Express bus. We leave Yangon at 5:00pm and begin the long drive to Mandalay. I paid extra for window seat 18, but the guy sitting next to me has taken on the terrible habbit of chewing betel nut on the bus. He is unfortunately spitting out maroon-dyed saliva in a bag hanging on the seat handle on the back of the seat in front of us. The bag, half full with his colorful, menthol smelling saliva, is bouncing around with the bumps of the bus. The saliva is getting shaken up and bubbling and I am worried the bag might fall onto the floor and spill the disgusting disgarded saliva all over the place. I seldom get motion sickness, but the thought of it all begins to greatly nauseate me, so I give up my premium seat and move away as far as possible to the back of the bus. At one point a cheeful attendent passes out a cherry-flavored moist towelette; he is unaware of my earlier predicament and I decide not to complain. We take a midnight stop at a busy road-side stall and eat some noodle soup. We pull into Mandalay sometime around dawn.
Mandalay is a place where magic happens. I wanted a draft beer and water, so I point to both on the table next to me. My waiter takes my empty H2O bottle to throw away, but moments later, returns with it full of beer. How funny! But what a great idea! The back alleys of Mandalay are outstanding. There are wooden houses everywhere and stupas and loud speakers blasting exotic music or highly reverberated speech. The food is terrible. Really nothing to repeat here. Burma Super Star in SF is a rare case where the is better in the US that where it originates from. The people though are so cordial; whenever they give something, they use both hands! I love them.back to top
The country’s official name is Myanmar, and domestically it is Myanma. The government in power employs this name to allegedly better represent all of the country’s people but more importantly to distance itself from the previous government and rule by the nation’s founding father and hero, General Bogyoke Aung San (February 1915 - July 1947.) Myanmar is also the literal and ancient name as well, used for hundreds of years prior. If someone/thing is from Myanmar, the adjective is Myanmar. (Myanmar people, Myanmar food.) The previous, and still popular name is Union of Burma, or simply Burma. The United States, UK, France, etc. still uses the name Burma in official documentation about the country. However, the name Burma may not accurately represent all the people in the country. About 70% of the citizens are, in fact, Burman. Yet, the remaining 30% come from many minority groups including Shan, Kachin, Kayah, Kayin, Karen, Chin, Mon, Rakhine, Chinese, Indian, etcetera. In fact there are more than 100 ethnic groups in the country, most of whom have historically struggled against the Burman majority at one point. So you can see, calling the country Burma linguistically can exclude much of the country. Nonetheless, those opposed to current government control, both domestically and internationally, insist that the name still be Burma— the name instilled by General Bogyoke Aung San, the modern founding father of the country. And Burma certainly possesses a ring in one’s ears that Myanmar doesn’t seem to project. Nonetheless, I still call the place Myanmar to include all involved and to mimic the term that most people inside the country use to describe themselves. In the future, maybe a third name may be created that would include all involved and distance itself from politically motivated government motives.back to top
This is the question asked on the cover of the Lonely Planet guidebook.
Myanmar still contains culture, clothing and tradition that faded from the rest of South East Asia 50 years ago, and it is full of friendly people doing whatever it takes to make the time more enjoyable. The land is a geographic meeting point between China, India, Thailand and Laos and a melting-pot of the best (and worst) these grand and ancient cultures have to offer. Imagine!
The government is highly centralized, corrupt and abusive, but very little of the money I spent there went directly into their hands. If you go, try to follow suit. The locals, on the other hand, were ecstatic that travelers were in Myanmar supporting their fledgling businesses. It was the best vibe in the region so far and it once brought tears to my eyes to think that we would want to boycott these kind people. Daw Aung San Suu Kyi, the highly brave and popularly elected (and often imprisoned) opposition leader insists that people not visit her country. This decision has major merit and is worth ample weight towards your decision; but do know that without tourists money, all the small business owners in the country would be left with no source of income other than what menial jobs currently exist in the country: rock crushing, temple building, prostitution, drug running and ??? It is a tough decision, but I believe cultural exchange is the best way to solve long-standing problems. I say “GO to Myanmar and tread very lightly; give as little to the government as possible.” And while your at it, ask these questions: Should you visit the United States? Should you visit China?back to top