Tripoli, Libya
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Libya/fairsky_Libya

Arc of Marcus Aurelius, Tripoli, Libya — November 3, 2024


Libya/fairsky_Libya

Gas is 10¢ a gallon in Tripoli, Libya — November 8, 2024


Libya 2024 Journal

Saturday, Nov 2 — Tripoli

My Libya Wings flight YL 83 progreses okay, even through during take off, the engine makes a bizarre squeak sound which I am unaccustomed too. At another point during the flight, I thought I saw fire coming from the engine, which I was sitting next to in seat 6a, and I immediately shut the window, as not to let my imagination get the best of me. Upon further checking, I realize the fire was exactly right next to the jet engine, but from flares atop oil rigs on the sea below. The blur from my reading glasses, looking at a distance, caused the confusion, but the fright was enough to make my heart skip a bit. but the my reading glasses. Noise and fires aside, our Airbus A319-100 5A-WLB lands at Mitiga International Airport MJI, on time, at 11:25pm.

Immigratoin is a bit complicated, as I am swept to the side and wait for all the other passengers to clear. My passport disappears for a while, but all too soon returns, with Abdul, who will be my tour leader for the next week. We find our car, and a driver leads us to the فندق كليوباترا Cleopatra Hotel. I check into room 705, but it is too noisy next to the squeaking elevator, so I move to room 703, which is much quieter, larger, and a better view.


Sunday, Nov 3 — Tripoli

I meet our team who will accompany us 24/7 for the enitre tour. In addition to Abdul, my team leader, there is Mohamed, a 52-year old man, with grayish beard, who apparently has 8 kids. Mohamed is the delegate from the Libya Ministry of Tourism. Then there is Siraj, a stylish, young chap, clean cut, with a noticible beard in the subtly Muslim religous fashion. Siraj is our rep from the Libyan tourist police. Then we have Yousef, who will be our Tripoli local guide for the day.

Tripoli highlights included the Arc of Marcus Aurelius, wandering the old and new town, and a magical dusk at Martyrs' Square. Unfortunately, the Citadel was closed by 1 pm, so we missed it. However, walking by the wheelbarrow money changers, enjoying coffee in the old city, and getting lost in the maze of shops and alleyways made for a great experience.


Monday, Nov 4 — Leptus Magna

Hotel breakfast off omelette, olives, foul mudammas, corn, spreadable processed cheese wedges, turkey slices, yoghurt and bread. We then all drive to Leptis Magna, starting at the iconic Arch of Septimius Severus.

Leptis Magna delivered on all cylinders with perfect November weather and blue skies. We were practically the only ones there, with just a few other visitors occasionally seen in the distance. On our way back, traffic police held us up while merging onto the main road. Suddenly, a man in the car following us got out, hollered at the traffic cop, and we were immediately allowed to pass as if we were VIPs. My guide explained that the second car had been following us all day, and I later learned we were always discreetly accompanied whenever we ventured outside Tripoli.


Tuesday, Nov 5 — Ghademes

We leave Tripoli at dawn, and drive down the Azizia - Nalut Road toward Ghadames. We soon fill up for gas, which is a cultural experience, as gas costs 0.15 Libyan Dinar per liter, or about 10¢ a gallon! This is the cheapest gas in the world, cheaper than water even!. We continue on and soon stop at a colorful roadside fruit stand. Many of the sellers are from Niger and other parts of the Sahel.

We drive to Gasr Al-Hajj قصر الحاج الأثري, a larege, mud granary where food was stored. First built in the 13th century AD by Abdallah Abu Jatla, tenants would climb to their area using stairs and sticks, jutting from the mud structure. The alure is amazing and we take a lot of pics, none of which really capture the geometry of the place. A video does better justice.

We drive on and eventully stop at Tarmisah. We wander throught the abondoned Berber village which is perched upon cliffs of Jebel Nefusa, to the end where the most spectacular views of the coastal plaines below provide ample photo ops.

We drive onto Kabaw town and visit Ksar Kabaw (Berber: ⴰⵣⴰⴳⵣ ⵏ ⵀⴰⵏⵉⴱⴰⵍ ), an abandoned Berber hilltop village-fort with another mud food storage structure. This one is even more surreal than the first, as the geometry of the scturcutre is more intense, and there are more ancient sticks jutting out everywhere, that tenants used to climb to reach their storage pods. The weather outside is perfect, and about 10 people are with us. Next door, is an old olive oil press where an massive stone roller crushed the olives and various wooden machines drained and extracted the oil.

We drive on for hours and eventually stop at a mosque in the middle of nowhere. Abdul explains these unattended mosques are placed every 20km or so in the empty areas, to rest, pray, and freshen up.


Wednesday, Nov 6 — Ghademes

We tour Ghadames old town in the mornings. Ghadames itself was tranquil, safe, and breathtaking.

In the afternoon we go dune bashing in a Toyota Sequoia near the border triangle of Tunisia, Algeria, and Libya. At dusk, we drive and visit some Tuareg folks, tending a campfire, making traditional bread, and selling local crafts, like shoes, pouhces, beads, and rings. At one point, Abdul hands me a guitar, and we play Hotel California, to the Tuareg's delight!


Thursday, Nov 7 — Tripoli

The long road back to Tripoli. We return to our roadside mosque and rest stop. We drive on and stop in Sinawin town at a small coffe stall that makes excellent espresso.

We drive on to Nalut, and visit the Nalut Castle ⵖⴰⵙⵔⵓ ⵏ ⵏⴰⵍⵓⵜ, another abandoned hillside granary, even more Star Wars-like than the others two days back. We continue on, and in the early evening arrive back to Tripoli. Once again, white Hyundai Pegas followed us through various towns, ensuring smooth navigation. My belief is that the second car was local to each region and could guide us around roadblocks or unexpected incidents.

We have dinner at الحاج حمد, and I order a fish with mandi rice, some local sausage, and soup yummy gravy soup. Todd then shops for football jerseys.


Friday, Nov 8 — Sabratha

On our final day, Friday, we visited Sabratha. The drive coincided with Friday prayers, and we watched as streets filled with worshippers leaving mosques. At the ruins, I briefly encountered an unsettling, slightly aggressive, and dramatically dressed stranger, but my guide handled it smoothly. The incident didn’t overshadow the beauty of the site or the serenity of wandering the ruins by the sea.

The day ends with a memorable evening walk along the New and Old Corniches in Tripoli.


Thursday, Nov 9 — Departure

Closing Thoughts: My Libya trip ended with a memorable evening walk along the New and Old Corniches in Tripoli. Despite initial anxiety about visiting a "Do Not Travel" country, everything went smoothly. I wouldn’t hesitate to return and plan to explore Benghazi next time with Abubaker’s help. Libya has huge potential: a Mediterranean country with epic history, a small population, excellent cuisine, endless Sahara safari opportunities, friendly locals, and abundant energy resources. I hope the country can resolve its government issues and reap the benefits of global connectedness. I also hope to return.

Flight to Cairo, Egypt

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