Namib Desert Park
Near the town of Ruacana, the Kunene River flows from the jungles
of Angola and turns west, flowing towards the sea. At Ruacana, the river becomes the border, separating Namibia from Angola.
Along the river, 135 kilometers to the west of Ruacana, the river
plunges in a mighty cataract over Epopa Falls. The Epopa Falls
are a stunning site as you emerge from the parched hills of the
Kaokoveld to see the mists covering the river with a white shroud
as the water plunges over the falls.
Epopa Falls is difficult to get to. The road from the town of
Opuwo is poor; filled with rocks, boulders, and washouts. But
the inaccessibility of Epopa Falls has left it a rarely visited
oasis in the Namibian outback. The falls are unique because the
cleft in the land over which the river plunges in not perpendicular
to the flow of water, but rather parallel to the river. As such, the river seemingly hits a dead end, then the middle opens up, and the water drops, churning into a gash in the middle of the
river. The effect is stupendous as the wide river is funneled
into a narrow canyon. The roar is deafening, and you must shout
to be heard over the river.
Practical Information:
The easiest way to access Epopa Falls is from the town of Opuwo.
North of Opuwo you will need a 4x4 vehicle to navigate the trecherous
roads. Take the road north to the town of Okongwati. From Okongwati
continue north. If you pass the Omuhonga Model Himba Village, you are going the correct way. If you hit the town of Etengwa, you have made a wrong turn and are headed west instead of north.
It should take the better portion of a day to reach Epopa Falls
from Opuwo, depending on the time of year and the quality of your
vehicle. You will eventually pass an airstrip and in a few kilometers
will reach the falls.The banks of the river are lined with palm
trees and there are several campsites in close proximity to the
water. There are few supplies available, but there is a Himba
village nearby where you may be able to procure a few dry goods.
The Himbas
add to the mystique of Epopa Falls, and they are often seen in
the campsites and walking along the river. They have many trinkets
for sale and it is likely that an impromptu market will be held
in your honor.
Note: There is a road that runs along the Kunene River from Epopa
Falls to Ruacana, 135 kilometers to the east. It is tempting to
take this road, which on a map seems blissfully short, rather
than backtrack all the way to Opuwo. While we at Overland Explorers
have not taken this route, we have heard from a number of other
travelers who have told us that this road is atrocious. One traveler, in a late 1990's Land Rover Defender, who had driven through West
Africa from the UK, claimed that this stretch of road was the
worst he had seen in Africa. By Far. It took him over eight hours
to cross the 135 kilometers, and he strongly recommends against
attempting this route. It is also worth considering that you are
basically skirting the border with Angola, which is currently
in the heated throes of a civil war, and thus there may be an
increased risk of banditry along this route.
Overland Explorers Suggested Itinerary:
A three day round trip excursion to Epopa Falls from Opuwo is
more than adequate to to see the sights around the river. Expect
to spend a single day driving to the falls, a day visiting, and
a day for the return trip. Once you reach the Kunene River it
is possible to visit the falls and the surrounding sights in a
single day, even two days would be excessive. However, the campsites
are rather quaint, and you may want to spend a few days relaxing
and rejuvinating along the river; if the Himbas don't pester you
too much! It is actually quite difficult to get a panoramic view
of the falls, so for a better view, climb the hill directly infront
of them.
As inviting as it may seem, there may be crocodiles in the river, so it is wise to abstain from swimming. However, it is a delight
to swim amongst the rocks near the shore directly adjacent to
the falls. The height of the Kunene River fluctuates quite rapidly
during the rainy season, and you will find the water level changing
during the course of the day. Near the falls there are many rocks
and boulders that have been scoured smooth by the river. When
the water level is low, it is possible to swim amongst the rocks.
It is a delight to be pushed along by the river, sliding amongst
the boulders as if they were a natural water slide. There are
pools with swirling vortexes of water to massage your muscles, there are submerged holes that you can swim through, even places
where it is possible to jump into the water from the rocks. At
certain places you can carefully swim all the way to the edge
of the falls and watch the water plunge into the chasm. The feeling
of elation is incredible, it is a natural water park better than
any designed by man. But be careful! If the water level rises, or you fall into the wrong current, you will be swept over the
falls to an almost certain death! It is marginally safe to swim
if you are careful but it is suicidally dangerous if you do not
exercise caution.
