The Himbas
The countries of Southern Africa have a staggering array of abundant
and prolific wildlife. However, there seems to be something missing
when you visit the countries of Southern Africa. Unlike Kenya, Tanzania, and Ethiopia to the north, the indigenous cultures of
Southern Africa are nearly extinct. The San have almost disappeared, and many of the other aboriginal ethnic groups are quickly becoming
assimilated into non-traditional lifestyles. Their culture is
disappearing.
A notable exception is the Himba people of Northwestern Namibia.
The Himbas inhabit a remote section of this vast country, clinging
to their traditional ways of life. They cover themselves in ochre
mud, their dark bodies radiating the maroon hues of a vanishing
sun. The Himba walk the Kaokoveld bare chested, with goat skins
wrapped around their waist. As you bounce along the thin track
that winds its way through the bush, you see Himbas, their hair
caked with mud, and are reminded that you are in again in ancient
Africa.
Overland Explorers Suggested Itinerary: You will most likely
get your first glimpse of the Himbas in the small town of Opuwo.
Opuwo can be easily reached in a 2wd vehicle from the south, either
by way of Sesfontein or Outjo. In Opuwo Himbas walk the streets
of the dusty town wearing full tribal dress. The Himbas have become
aware of their novel allure to foreign tourists, and when they
see a tourist vehicle, flock around it in droves. The Himbas in
Opuwo can be rather aggressive, in much the same was the Maasai
have become in certain parts of Kenya. If you are short on time
or don't have a rugged 4x4 vehicle, you will be able to see Himbas
in Opuwo, but we don't recommend that you venture further north.
However, if you do have access to a rugged vehicle, we suggest
that you leave Opuwo as quickly as possibly and head further north
into the Kaokoveld.
From Opuwo the road heads north to Epopa
Falls. It is along this road that you will begin to see the
truly nomadic Himabs, herding their goats and cattle across the
vast open spaces of Namibia. The roads are terrible, filled with
boulders and rivulets, as they wind their way through the hilly
terrain. The road is often a single track, wide enough for only
a single vehicle. While the going is slow, a 4x4 vehicle should
easily be able to pass without incident. There are a number of
traditional Himba villages on the way to Epopa Falls, and if you
wish, may stop by and say hello. At the town of Okongwati the
road splits, the track north leads to Epopa Falls, and the track
to the west heads farther into the desert mountains of the Kaokoveld.
Along both tracks you will encounter Himbas. To the north, at
Epopa Falls, is a Himba village and the local population has a
thriving business selling trinkets to tourists. Epopa Falls is
itself stunning and well worth the visit. To the west, the road
meanders through the mountains. Be aware that the road is treacherous
and difficult even for a 4x4 vehicle. If you chose this route
be prepared for an arduous journey and bring all necessary supplies
to be self-sufficient. Few tourists enter this region of the Kaokoveld, and as a result, the Himbas that you encounter are likely to be
less spoilt by western intervention. It is also possible on the
western route to make a loop and return back to Opuwo via a number
of different roads. If you plan on venturing deep into the Kaokoveld, we strongly recommend that you take the Shell Kaokoland-Kunene
Region Tourist Map.
Note: There is a road that runs along the Kunene River from Epopa
Falls to Ruacana, 135 kilometers to the east. It is tempting to
take this road, which on a map seems blissfully short, rather
than backtrack all the way to Opuwo. While we at Overland Explorers
have not taken this route, we have heard from a number of other
travelers who have told us that this road is atrocious. One traveler, in a late 1990's Land Rover Defender, who had driven through West
Africa from the UK, claimed that this stretch of road was the
worst he had seen in Africa. By Far. It took him over eight hours
to cross the 135 kilometers, and strongly recommends against attempting
this route. It is also worth considering that you are basically
skirting the border with Angola, which is currently in the heated
throes of a civil war, and thus there may be an increased risk
of banditry along this route.