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Hanging Over The Edge, Epopa Falls Namibia
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Epopa Falls
Near the town of Ruacana, the Kunene River flows from the jungles
of Angola and turns west, flowing towards the sea. At Ruacana, the
river becomes the border, separating Namibia from Angola. Along
the river, 135 kilometers to the west of Ruacana, the river plunges
in a mighty cataract over Epopa Falls. The Epopa Falls are a stunning
site as you emerge from the parched hills of the Kaokoveld to see
the mists covering the river with a white shroud as the water plunges
over the falls.
Epopa Falls is difficult to get to. The road from the town of Opuwo
is poor; filled with rocks, boulders, and washouts. But the inaccessibility
of Epopa Falls has left it a rarely visited oasis in the Namibian
outback. The falls are unique because the cleft in the land over
which the river plunges in not perpendicular to the flow of water, but rather parallel to the river. As such, the river seemingly hits
a dead end, then the middle opens up, and the water drops, churning
into a gash in the middle of the river. The effect is stupendous
as the wide river is funneled into a narrow canyon. The roar is
deafening, and you must shout to be heard over the river.
Practical Information:
The easiest way to access Epopa Falls is from the town of Opuwo.
North of Opuwo you will need a 4x4 vehicle to navigate the trecherous
roads. Take the road north to the town of Okongwati. From Okongwati
continue north. If you pass the Omuhonga Model Himba Village, you
are going the correct way. If you hit the town of Etengwa, you have
made a wrong turn and are headed west instead of north. It should
take the better portion of a day to reach Epopa Falls from Opuwo, depending on the time of year and the quality of your vehicle. You
will eventually pass an airstrip and in a few kilometers will reach
the falls.The banks of the river are lined with palm trees and there
are several campsites in close proximity to the water. There are
few supplies available, but there is a Himba village nearby where
you may be able to procure a few dry goods. The Himbas add to the mystique of Epopa Falls, and they are often seen in the
campsites and walking along the river. They have many trinkets for
sale and it is likely that an impromptu market will be held in your
honor.
Note: There is a road that runs along the Kunene River from
Epopa Falls to Ruacana, 135 kilometers to the east. It is tempting
to take this road, which on a map seems blissfully short, rather
than backtrack all the way to Opuwo. While we at Overland Explorers
have not taken this route, we have heard from a number of other
travelers who have told us that this road is atrocious. One traveler, in a late 1990's Land Rover Defender, who had driven through West
Africa from the UK, claimed that this stretch of road was the worst
he had seen in Africa. By Far. It took him over eight hours to cross
the 135 kilometers, and he strongly recommends against attempting
this route. It is also worth considering that you are basically
skirting the border with Angola, which is currently in the heated
throes of a civil war, and thus there may be an increased risk of
banditry along this route.
Overland Explorers Suggested Itinerary:
A three day round trip excursion to Epopa Falls from Opuwo is more
than adequate to to see the sights around the river. Expect to spend
a single day driving to the falls, a day visiting, and a day for
the return trip. Once you reach the Kunene River it is possible
to visit the falls and the surrounding sights in a single day, even
two days would be excessive. However, the campsites are rather quaint, and you may want to spend a few days relaxing and rejuvinating along
the river; if the Himbas don't pester you too much! It is actually
quite difficult to get a panoramic view of the falls, so for a better
view, climb the hill directly infront of them.
As inviting as it may seem, there may be crocodiles in the river, so it is wise to abstain from swimming. However, it is a delight
to swim amongst the rocks near the shore directly adjacent to the
falls. The height of the Kunene River fluctuates quite rapidly during
the rainy season, and you will find the water level changing during
the course of the day. Near the falls there are many rocks and boulders
that have been scoured smooth by the river. When the water level
is low, it is possible to swim amongst the rocks. It is a delight
to be pushed along by the river, sliding amongst the boulders as
if they were a natural water slide. There are pools with swirling
vortexes of water to massage your muscles, there are submerged holes
that you can swim through, even places where it is possible to jump
into the water from the rocks. At certain places you can carefully
swim all the way to the edge of the falls and watch the water plunge
into the chasm. The feeling of elation is incredible, it is a natural
water park better than any designed by man. But be careful! If the
water level rises, or you fall into the wrong current, you will
be swept over the falls to an almost certain death! It is marginally
safe to swim if you are careful but it is suicidally dangerous if
you do not exercise caution. |
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