Skeleton
Coast
The romantic desolation of the skeleton coast conjures dreams
of shipwreck, castaways, and almost certain death. The region
is inhospitable, the shifting sands, pale and gray, creating a
landscape of subtle change, the muted hues of a constantly changing
desert kaleidoscope. As with nearly everywhere in Namibia, you
are struck by the vast emptiness of the Skeleton coast. It is
one of the few places on earth a shipwrecked sailor, having drifted
for days clinging to a piece of the shattered mast, would curse
his luck for being washed ashore. The beaches are endless, stretching
to the horizon, the undulating dunes rolling like waves in the
sea. A strange muffled stillness permeates the air, but as you
listen, the silence becomes a roar; the crashing waves, the fluttering
wind from the sea, the occasional lonely cry of a plover piercing
the silence. You try to speak but realize you have to shout to
be heard. Standing on the beach, where it seems nothing could
live, you search the horizon for signs of life. You see not a
plant, tree or even a blade of grass. The beach is totally devoid
of the wrack of sargasso to mark the reach of last night's tide.
Only a few bleached pieces of driftwood lie half buried in the
sands, reaching towards the sky like ghouls escaping from a crypt.
But on closer inspection, in this land of endless death, are small
signs of life triumphant. A tern dodges the waves to pluck sand
crabs from their burrows. The spoor of a jackal wends its way
through the stones that line the shore, revealing the saga of
his midnight search for marauding rodents. And as you notice life
surviving, its tenuous grasp proliferating even amidst this stretch
of barren hostility, you revel in the glory that is Namibia.
Practical Information:
Most people arrive at the Skeleton Coast driving north from Swakopmund.
There is a significant amount of traffic along the road, most
of the traffic being large 4x4s with huge fishing poles strapped
to the front bumpers, pointing towards the sky. The stretch of
beach from Swakopmund to Cape Cross and on to Mile 108, is a popular
fishing area with affluent Southern Africans. Be aware that many
maps of this area mark the route in kilometers, however, sign
posted distances on the road are often given in miles. Once past
mile 108, the traffic thins considerably and only rarely do you
see a passing motorist. It is even rarer to see anyone on foot.
Seventy-six kilometers north of Henties Bay is a junction. Continue
north to Skeleton Coast Park. The road to the right leads to the
town of Uis, (165 km).
About 50 kilometers further along the road you reach the Southern
gates of Skeleton Coast Park. The Gates are a formidable sight
Two huge skull and cross bones bar passage and the gigantic grotesquely
curved ribs of a whale lurk as menacing sentries guarding the
road. You must stop at the gates and check in at the Ugabmund
Park Office to obtain a permit to enter the park. If it is after
3pm, the park rangers WILL NOT let you enter.
Technically, you are not allowed day visits to the Skeleton Coast
Park. You must either book reservations to stay at one of the
two campsites, or obtain a transit permit. The transit permit
only allows you to enter the Ugabmund gate and drive directly
to the eastern Springbokwater Gate. You are prohibited from travelling
further north, except to refuel at Torra Bay.
Torra bay is a rather grim campsite that is only open during
the months of December and January. There are numerous campsites, drop toilets, a small shop, and a primitive petrol station. The
campsite is reminiscent of a military compound and possesses a
rather otherworldly, eerie feeling. You will find yourself wanting
to stay only long enough to use the toilets and refuel.
Further north is the enclave of Terrace Bay. Open year around, the accommodation here is rather pricey and avoided by a majority
of budget travelers. If possible, try to visit Terrace Bay on
a day trip, and spend the night in a more affordable camp.
The Overland Explorers Suggested Itinerary: We at Overland Explorers
recommend that you incorporate a visit to the Skeleton Coast Park
with a visit to the Cape Cross Seal Reserve. Leave Swakopmund
in the morning and drive north for two hours at a leisurely pace
to Cape Cross. After visiting the Reserve, continue north for
110km to the Skeleton Coast Gates at Ugabmund. You should arrive
late in the afternoon; too late to enter the park. Visit the Park
office, and speak to the rangers about transit through the park
the following day. Inquire about park rules, ask for any printed
information they may have, and ask when the gates will open in
the morning.
When you have received all of the necessary information, turn
around and head back south. You will notice along the road rock
cairns marking dusty paths that split from the main road, heading
west to the ocean. Find a point in the road where it is far from
the water, then pick an interesting side track and turn right.
Follow the track to the water. You will most likely find a pristine
beach, totally deserted. If the beach is occupied by other campers, simply drive north or south until you are alone. Bush camp here
for the night. You will find it one of the most rewarding bush
camps in Africa.
There are no facilities, so you must be totally self-sufficient.
There should be plenty of driftwood that can be used to start
a fire, but the wood will be soggy so expect it to burn reluctantly
and emit a thick cloud of pungent smoke. Dig toilet pits and burn
all paper waste. Show respect to this pristine environment and
take all of your waste with you when you leave in the morning.
Be aware that during the night a thick mist is likely to descend, covering everything in a thick coat of dew. Everything left out
will as wet as if it had been subjected to a tropical typhoon.
Rise early the next morning and arrive at the gates when they
open. Ask for a transit permit to drive through the park (~$2.50pp
+ $3 for the vehicle). Spend the day driving slowly through the
park. You will see the beautiful scenery of the park, however, you will only have the opportunity to visit a single, rather sorry, mostly disintegrated shipwreck. If you are fortunate enough to
visit during the months of December and January, continue north
past the right turn to the Springbokwater gate, and visit Torra
Bay. The campsite itself isn't worth visiting, but the views along
the road to the camp are stunning. With a day permit you are prohibited
from proceeding further north, however we are unsure how this
rule is enforced. From Torra Bay, turn back south and exit the
park through the Springbokwater gate.
While this route provides you with a somewhat limited tour of
Skeleton Coast Park, you really only miss the 49km of road that
extend up to Terrace Bay. While you definitely do not see the
entire park, you do get to see stunning desert scenery and you
will leave with an incredible impression of the Skeleton Coast.
The bush camp along the coast is not to be missed, and considering
the depressing state of the Torra Bay camp, is a magnificent alternative
to spending the night within the park. One alternative that often
works in Botswana, although we have not tried it in Skeleton Coast
Park, is to ask the park officials for a pass to the Terrace Bay.
Explain that you may not be able to reach the site, but would
still like a reservation. Ask if you can pay at the campsite, and tell the ranger to write this on your reservation. You will
then have a permit that allows you to proceed to Terrace Bay, but if you can't stay, can turn south again and leave the park.
This probably won't work, and if it does, will require a considerable
amount of discussion with the ranger. Be aware that when you exit
the park there are few, if any places to stay. However, the land
is empty and is an ideal place for a bush camp. If you do not
feel comfortable bush camping, ask if you can camp in the rangers
compound at Springbokwater. As you are out of the park it should
be free and the rangers are often quite accommodating.
