Egypt Eritrea Ethiopia Kenya Uganda Tanzania Malawi Mozambique Zimbabwe Zambia Botswana Namibia South Africa Madagascar
Our Itinerary: Africa 1998 — 1999

 


France · Egypt · Eritrea · Ethiopia · Kenya-2 · Uganda · Tanzania-2 · Zanzibar · Malawi-2 · Moçambique
Zimbabwe-2-3-4 · Botswana-2-3 · Zambia-2-3 · Namibia · South Africa-2 · Madagascar

 


1998 | March · April · May · June · July · August · September · October · November · December
1999 | January · February · March · Asia  |   Breakfast  · Hydroplane · Breakfast Breakdowns
 

France (5 nights)

March 1998        

    4

7:00P — Air France flight 61 (B742)
Los Angeles, CA — Charles de Gaull, Paris, France

    5

Arrive evening, drop off bags at Ducks 3 Hostel, and immediately procede to Eiffel Tower. The night of the infamous “This is not duck this is beef” only-restaurant-open scam

    6

Toulouse; woke up in Paris; visited the Louvre; 4pm train to Toulouse. Nice dinner with Tina, some wine.

    7

Toulouse; beautiful bike ride

    8

Biking all day and crepes on the square

    9

Billet @ 5:18pm 320.00 FRF (2nd class; voit 18; Place No 47) Arrive 10:30pm and walk around Paris

 

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Egypt (26 nights)

March 1998        

    10

Cairo (1) — Nortre Dam in the morning.
1:45P — Air France flight 504
Paris, France — Le Caire, Egypt; Minerva Hotel located on the fifth floor of an old colonial building that has gone to seed

    11

Cairo (2) — Wake up late (4:30p); demanded breakfast but to no avail

    12

Cairo (3) — Mosque of Mohamid Ali; walk through Islamic Cairo; 2nd hand market; Todd eats meat off the street; our sell-perfume-for-5-times-the price scam; evening Nile cruise

    13

Cairo (4) — Wake up late; Egyptian museum; pyramids; dinner of pigeon with Mr.Gerges and Tiger

    14

Training — City of the Dead; met Ed, the crazy Dutch man; midnight train to Luxor

    15

Luxor — Todd's Birthday; Karnac; Ride around at night

    16

Luxor — Cyndi

    17

Training — Luxor; train to Cairo; bus to Suez; all day delay; wrote “Sometimes” ; mini van to Tarabin

    18

Tarabin — Met the guy that biked to Libya. This guy nonchalantly got on his bike, the way you and I might ride to the beach, and biked all the way to Libya

    19

Tarabin

    20

Dahab (1) — Arrived by taxi in the backway

    21

Dahab (2) — Dahab relax

    22

Dahab (3) — Open water dive 1 — Lighthouse

    23

Dahab (4) — Open water dive 2,3 — Lighthouse

    24

Dahab (5) — Open water dive 4 — the Canyon; received Open Water Diver certificate from Adventure Dive Club, Dahab

    25

Dahab (6) — Drift dive 5- Eel Gardens to Lighthouse; saw sea turtle; fan coral

    26

Dahab (7) — Advanced naturalist dive 6 — the Islands; saw the following: common goldfish; wiasses; parrot fish; queen angle; bluefish; kiwi coral; lettuce coral; mushroom coral; brain coral; sea anemone.
Advanced navigation dive 7 — Lighthouse; no visibility; basically a failed dive, but fun

    27

Dahab (8) — Advanced dive 30 meters 8 — the Canyon.
This is where I wrote the classic postcard

    28

Dahab (9) — Advanced night dive 9 — Lighthouse; saw lobster; octopus; porcipine fish; eels; sticky cucumber

    29

Dahab (10) — Advanced multi-level dive 10 — Blue Hole; incredible.
Free Dive 11 — the Canyon; in the fish bowl; millions of glass fish; received Advanced Diver certificate from Adventure Dive Club, Dahab

    30

Mt. Sanai summit — worried about getting the bends. Damn cold and damn good

    31

Na'ama Bay — Free Dive 12 — Abu Helal; the dive where I became a fan. Bus to Na'ama Bay

 

April 1998        

    1

Na'ama Bay — Thistlegorn — Sha'ab Ali Dive 13 (outside), 14 (inside); sunken WWII British cargo ship (hit October 6, 1941).
Stingray Station Dive 15 — Ras Mohamed, Sanai

    2

Dahab (11) — relaxation in Na'ama Bay; Egypt Air various price scam; fuck-this-place-bus-back-to-Dahab

    3

Cairo; Early, yet lagging, all day bus to Cairo

    4

Egypt Air ticket meltdown; last day Cairo leave at 3:15am (April 5)

 

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Eritrea (10 nights)

April 1998        

    5

Asmara (1) — Arrived at 5am via Egypt Air; walked around town market; Chinese restaurant

    6

Asmara (2) — Ethiopian visa; walk to south of town.

    7

Ghindi — Rented NIVA 1600

    8

Masawa (1) my birthday with Sylvana & Ulda; fish at Salama's

    9

Masawa (2) — Gurgusom beach day; fish at Salama's

    10

Masawa (3) — wandered around town; the harbor/no passport incident; the pakistani grain ship; fish at Salama's

    11

Keren (1) — 2 bus trips; neat night rest stop

    12

Keren (2) — The mountain hike with kids; boom

    13

Keren (3) — The Monday livestock market

    14

Adi Kala

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Ethiopia (35 nights)

April 1998        

    15

Adwa

    16

Axum

    17

Axum; hike to the church; visited the stelae; bathing grounds of the Queen of Sheba

    18

Axum; bucket shower; Easter services all night

    19

Shiray; 6:00am bus to Shiray; hotel overpriced scam; see Easter ceremonies on the way; hike to hill top; meet man with gun

    20

Adi Arkay — the Ethiopian Tina; coldest beer in the village

    21

Debark — the famed Lorry day

    22

Debark — the chill out day

    23

Debark — the Austrain training park visit

    24

Gondar — 6:00am bus; Johanes shows us around; walk to the famous Debre Berhan Selassie Church and saw the angels painted on the ceiling

    25

Gondar —

    26

Lalibela, the “You are week.”

    27

Lalibela, day 1 of the tour

    28

Lalibela, day 2 of the tour

    29

Bahir Dar — Ghion Hotel; the 30-birr-to-the airport-we-will-walk-instead scam

    30

Bahir Dar — Ghion Hotel; explored the Blue Nile Falls near Tis Abbay

 

May 1998        

    1

Addis Ababa (1) — Larium Day, flew into Addis today. Stay at Park Hotel

    2

Addis Ababa (2)

    3

Addis Ababa (3)

    4

Addis Ababa (4) — The “Buy Breakfast” day. Today we attempt to buy in Addis Ababa, on May 4, 1998, two months after a famed Egypt Air flight, a 1980 White Toyota Hilux small truck for an African Overland Adventure, with a rebuilt Ford V6 engine. Your joking, right? No…

    5

Addis Ababa (5)

    6

Addis Ababa (6)

    7

Addis Ababa (7)

    8

Addis Ababa (8)

    9

Addis Ababa (9)

    10

Addis Ababa (10)

    11

Lake Langano — We bush camped next to the lake. Our first night with Breakfast. As soon as we set up camp, several Ethiopians come out of the bushes and watch us

    12

Araba Minch — Arrive after dark without headlights; it was here where we named our truck ‘Breakfast’ in honor of a nice poster hanging in the kitch. We ate fish for dinner both nights

    13

Arba Minch, swimming down in the valley, ate fish

    14

Konso, drive all day, make Potjie

    15

Jinka, arrive late, make Potjie

    16

Jinka, the turn off the water after 1 week no shower scam

    17

Burge, the steep hill, bush camp, shit scare day

    18

Mega, warm fresh bread, bush camp, near border

    19

Moyale, silencer falls of exaust system

 

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Kenya (1st time; 31 nights) (40 nights total)

May 1998        

    20

Moyale (Kenya side), No cross border scam

    21

Marsabit, 6am to 8pm, 14 hours of neck-jarring road along the East African Trans-continental hyway

    22

Archer's Post

    23

Chuka

    24

Chuka

    25

Nairobi (1)

    26

Nairobi (2)

    27

Nairobi (3)

    28

Nairobi (4)

    29

Nairobi (5)

    30

Nairobi (6) — The food poisoning day

    31

Nairobi (7) — Our meningitus shot

 

June 1998        

    1

Nairobi (8)

    2

Nairobi (9)

    3

Nairobi (10)

    4

Naivasha

    5

Naivasha

    6

Hell's Gate

    7

Nakuru

    8

Eldorate Overland

    9

Eldorate Overland

    10

Eldorate — Kip Keino's place

    11

Eldorate — Kip Keino's place

    12

Eldorate — Kip Keino's place (?)

    13

Kitale — Safari Place

    14

Eliye Springs, Lake Turkana

    15

Eliye Springs, Lake Turkana

    16

Bush Camp, Turkana

    17

Turkwell Gorge — Lodwa omlette

    18

Turkwell Gorge

    19

Total Gas Staion with Joseph

 

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Uganda (21 nights)

June 1998        

    20

Jinji — crossed at Malaba; camped at Bujagali Falls

    21

Jinja — Sunday; banks closed

    22

Kampala (1)

    23

Kampala (2)

    24

Kampala (3)

    25

Kampala (4)

    26

The wied “no menu” place

    27

Bwindi Impenetrable

    28

Bwindi Impenetrable

    29

Bwindi Impenetrable

    30

Bwindi Impenetrable

 

July 1998

    1

Bwindi Impenetrable

    2

Bwindi Impenetrable

    3

Bwindi Impenetrable — Todd and I track the gorillas today in the dense forest

    4

Bwindi Impenetrable — Greg and Nicole track the gorillas

    5

Lake Bunyoni

    6

Kampala (5)

    7

Kampala (6)

    8

Kampala (7) — Lake Victoria

    9

Jinja

    10

Jinja — The Nile river rafting trip

 

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Kenya (2nd time; 9 nights)

July 1998        

    10

The stalled-at-lunch-border crossing

    11

Kakamega — Stayed with Nick, the Ornithologist

    12

Eldorat — The Breakfast-spin-out-inncident; Kip Keino's place (World Cup; Confirmed Date)

    13

Lake Bogoria — millions of flamingoes; bushcamp in the middle of herds of zebra

    14

Nairobi (11) — Tuesday Masai Market

    15

Nairobi (12) — Nicole leaves for Europe; Todd drinks

    16

Lake Magadi Camp

    17

Nairobi (13) — Greg kicked rock in my eye in the early morning; Masia market; engine makes wierd noises

    18

Amboseli — “HP Sauce!”

 

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Tanzania (1st time; 8 nights) (17 nights total)

July 1998        

    19

Arusha — Masai Camp

    20

Arusha — Masai Camp

    21

Ngorongoro Crater — the drive out

    22

Ngorongoro Crater attempt

    23

Ngorongoro Crater

    24

Arusha — Morning drive from Crater; retread tyre scam

    25

Traveler's Lodge and Camp — The bag-on-Brian-Brian-goes-to-bed-early-night

    26

Dar es Salaam — Silver Sands Hotel

 

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Zanzibar (5 nights)

July 1998        

    27

Dar es Salaam → Zanzibar
Catamaran Passenger Cruiser
Africa Shipping Corporation LTD.
PO Box 3231 Zanzibar, Tanzania
Fare $15 (first class) + Port Tax $5
Stone Town — Arrive, find hotel, wander, sunset at night market

    28

Stone Town — Change money, dry clean adventure, Kate's sarong buying escapade, sunset at night market

    29

Stone Town — Spice Tour in the rain, night market

    30

Stone Town — Today we wander, I get lost, meet Jocelyn at the night market

    31

Stone Town — The trip to the beach on the other side of the island. I get lost wandering home at night

 

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The Black Diamond — At Sea (1 night)

August 1998        

     1

At sea — Hook up with George, the Polish sailor and Bossman and their Black Diamond 52 foot double mast sailboat. Great connection. Clear customs and sail out of Stone Town at sunset after shopping and one final walk through Stone Town. Goodbye Zanzibar

 

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Tanzania (2nd time; 3 nights)

August 1998        

    2

Dar es Salaam — Wake on the Black Diamond; Deserted Island; Silver Sands Hotel

    3

Dar es Salaam — Silver Sands Hotel; The Chigger Incident

    4

Kisolanza Farm Camp, Iringa, made blackberry jam

    5

The Tanzanian 2 km/hr over the speed limit radar gun scam

 

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Malawi (1st time; 13 nights) (31 nights total)

August 1998        

    5

Karango — Cross into Malawi (Songwe Border); sleep in the Karango Courtyard

    6

Korango — car won't start, rebuild Breakfast's alternator, eat fried chambo fish, yum

    7

Livingstonia — Drive to Chitimba, first dip into Lake Malawi, see friends at overland stop, drive up to Livingstonia.
US Embassies in Nairobi and Dar es Salaam bombed

    8

Nkhata Bay (1) — Begin clicking, drive to Mzuzu, and then on to Nkhata Bay, Africa Bay Backpackers, clicking getting worse

    9

Nkhata Bay — the gear box has failed, jerry died 3 yrs ago, my god, are what are all those parts doing all over the place

    10

Nkhata Bay (2) — market

    11

Nkhata Bay (3) — bought the teak pipe

    12

Nkhata Bay (4) — Murray Powers

    13

Nkhata Bay (5) — stoned

    14

Nkhata Bay (6) — gear box finished, bought the Fish Chair.
Maula Tyre Fitters and General Repairs
Prop L.D. Kamanga
PO Box 2 Nkhata Bay

    15

Nkhata Bay (7) — Party

    16

Leave Africa Bay, eat small, fried bird in Salima, go to Lilongwe and camp at a house, nice dinner

    17

Awaken in Lilongwe with ants infestation, get Moçambique Visa, drive to Mwanza at Malawi/Moçambique border

    18

Wake up at 5:00am, exit Malawi (Mwanza border), 6:00am

 

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Moçambique (0 nights)

August 1998        

    18

Tete Corridor 7:00am — 10:30am (Cuchamano border)

 

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Zimbabwe (1st time; 17 nights) (46 nights total)

August 1998        

    18

Harare — Enter Zim (Nyamapanda border) at 11:30am, eat lunch at some random gas station, try to change money, meet Chris T. at the airport at 1:30pm, go meet up with Aren & Marieke

    19

Harare, meet the Mies and Roland at the airport, get drunk that night

    20

Harare, my backpack gets stolen early in the morning; play tennis

    21

Harare, play tennis

    22

Harare — bought travelers checks at the mall; Aren's roof rack trouble; Brian's freak dance on top of the car

    23

Photo Developing, bought 10 rt tickets to Madagascar

    24

Bulawayo — Nicole rejoins the group

    25

Matopos

    26

Matopos

    27

Hwange — Main Camp

    28

Hwange — Sinamatella Camp

    29

Hwange — Masuma Dam

    30

Hwange — Masuma Dam

 

September 1998        

    1

Hwange — Robbins Camp — Greg freak-out day

    2

Victoria Falls (1); High Tea

    3

Victoria Falls (2); Mies and I go to the falls

    4

Victoria Falls (3); Zambezi River Rafting

    5

Victoria Falls (4); Zambia go-comeback

 

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Zambia (1st time; 0 nights) (19 nights total)

September 1998        

    5

Victoria Falls — Zambia side

 

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Zimbabwe (2nd time; 1 night)

September 1998        

    5

Victoria Falls (4); Zambia go-comeback

 

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Botswana (1st time; 3 nights)

September 1998        

    6

Chobe National Park; enter Botswana (Kazungula Road border); camped by river; baboons stole our avocados

    7

Chobe; the day of the Breakfast/Leo breakdown; bush camped on the side of the road

    8

Botswana army rescue

 

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Zimbabwe (3rd time; 27 nights)

September 1998        

    8

Victoria Falls (5); enter Zimbabwe (Kazungula border); Leo tows Breakfast to Vic Falls; party at Down Under

    9

Victoria Falls (6)

    10

Victoria Falls (7) — Greg and Bass leave the group

    11

Victoria Falls (8) — Jocelyn leaves the group

    12

Victoria Falls (9)

    13

Bulawayo

    14

Kyle Recreation Center

    15

Kyle Recreation Center

    16

Harare (10)

    17

Harare (11)

    18

Harare (12)

    19

Harare (13)

    20

Harare (14)

    21

Harare (15)

    22

Harare (16)

    23

Harare (17)

    24

Chinhoyi — The nice dinner night

    25

Matusadona (1) — Arrove after dark

    26

Matusadona (2) — Canoe and mud/elephant dung fight

    27

Matusadona (3) — Fishing and bush baby walk

    28

Karoi

    29

Mana Pools (1)

    30

Mana Pools (2)

 

October 1998        

    1

Mana Pools (3)

    2

Mana Pools (4)

    3

Mana Pools

    4

Mana Pools

    5

Exit Zimbabwe (Chirundu border)

 

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Zambia (2nd time; 9 nights)

October 1998        

    5

Kufue Gorge

    6

Kufue Gorge — The mosquito bite that give me malaria

    7

Chisamba

    8

Chisamba

    9

Lusaka — Zambian multiple entry visa scam, Lusaka regional immigration office.

    10

Lusaka — Chris leaves the group, the breakfast-is-rushed-my-hiking-boots-get-stolen scam

    11

Lusaka

    12

Random roadhouse

    13

Iringa

    14

Exit Zambia (Mwami border)

 

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Malawi (2nd time; 18 nights)

October 1998        

    14

Senga Bay — Enter Malawi (Mchinji border) drive to Livingstonia Hotel campground; listened to Culture Live over and over; Todd sick

    15

Senga Bay — Livingstonia Hotel, cashed travelers check maybe this is the receipt for that:
Commercial Bank of Malawa, Ltd.
Capital City Branch — Lilongwe 3
15 Oct 1998.
Convert US $200 at rate 41.69 to Kw 8,338.12 — 110.20 commision = Kw 8,227.92
Question: Why is this from Lilongwe on this day?

    16

Nkhata Bay (8) —

    17

Nkhata Bay (9) —

    18

Nkhata Bay (10) —

    19

Nkhata Bay (11) —

    20

Nkhata Bay (12) —

    21

Nkhata Bay (13) — Brian is malarious

    22

Nkhata Bay (14) —

    23

Nkhata Bay (15) —

    24

Nkhata Bay (16) —

    25

Nkhata Bay (17) —

    26

Nkhata Bay (18) —

    27

Nkhata Bay (19) —

    28

Nkhata Bay (20) — Marieke's Birthday; campfire on the beach

    29

Nkhata Bay (21) —

    30

Nkhata Bay (22) —

    31

Nkhata Bay (23) —

 

November 1998        

    1

Senga Bay

    2

Senga Bay — fishing boat village excursion; you buy mangos scam

    3

Exit Malawi (Mchinji border)

 

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Zambia (3rd time; 10 nights) 

November 1998        

    3

Chitapa — Enter Zambia (Mwami border) the free camping place

    4

South Luangwa — Arrive after dark

    5

South Luangwa — Zambia, cashed travelers check at park gate

    6

South Luangwa — day two

    7

Petauke (Petukalae) — the neat off-road adventure; Zambian moon

    8

Lusaka, cashed travelers check at bank

    9

Kafue National Park attempt — Brian doesn't pay park entrance

    10

Lusaka — The coil spring fixing project

    11

Livingstone — Jolly Boys backpackers

    12

Livingstone — Jolly Boys backpackers

    13

Cross into Zimbabwe

 

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Zimbabwe (4th time; 1 night)

November 1998        

    13

Victoria Falls

 

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Botswana (2nd time; 0 nights)

November 1998        

    14

Enter Botswana (Kazungula border); drove several k's; exit Botswana (Ngoma border)

 

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Namibia (30 nights)

November 1998        

    14

Katima Mulilo — Enter Namibia (Ngoma border) Katima M. Shell

    15

Caprive Strip Game Park

    16

Game Park

    17

Game Park

    18

Rundu — Golf; the gear box breaks again

    19

Windhoek — Grootfontein

    20

Windhoek — FN Bank of Namibia

    21

Windhoek —

    22

Windhoek —

    23

Windhoek — bought stamps at Post Office

    24

Windhoek — Hospital, malaria test, pharmacy

    25

Windhoek

    26

Windhoek

    27

Namib — Naukluft Park

    28

Sossusvlei

    29

Remote “the-sky-is-the-limit-i'm-going-to-have-my-own-potjie” campground

    30

Swakapmund

 

December 1998        

    1

Swakapmund

    2

Swakapmund

    3

Swakapmund

    4

Windhoek

    5

Windhoek

    6

Windhoek

    7

Windhoek — developed photos

    8

Windhoek

    9

Windhoek

    10

Windhoek

    11

Windhoek

    12

Windhoek

    13

Windhoek

 

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Botswana (3rd time; 1 night)

December 1998        

    14

Enter Botswana (Mamono border)
Slept at the gas station with the brutal lightning storm

    15

Exit Botswana (Ramatlabama border)

 

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Suid Africa (1st time; 4 nights) (58 nights total)

December 1998        

    15

Johanesburg — Enter South Africa (Ramatlabama border)

    16

Johanesburg

    17

Johanesburg

    18

Johanesburg

    19

Exit South Africa — Johannesburg International Airport

 

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Madagascar (28 nights)

December 1998        

    19

Antananarivo — Air Madagascar

    20

Antananarivo

    21

Antananarivo

    22

Analamazaotra (Perinet) — Brokedown mini-van taxi to the track the legendary indiri lemur; go on a night hike and see a red grasshopper; sleep at Hotel Buffet de la Gare — an old railway station

    23

Antananarivo — Day hike in Perinet; Parson's Chameleon; yellow grasshopper; Mies & Wouter arrive

    24

Antananarivo

    25

Antananarivo

    26

Antsirabe

    27

Antsirabe

    28

Fianarantsoa — The Wine tour

    29

Ihosey

    30

Ifaty, Mora Mora Resort — the Life, oh Life ride

    31

Ifaty, Mora Mora Resort

 

January 1999

    1

Ifaty, Mora Mora Resort — the day of rest

    2

Ifaty, Mora Mora Resort — the scuba diving day

    3

Ifaty, Mora Mora Resort — take the sailboat down the coast; eat fish in village

    4

Ifaty, Mora Mora Resort

    5

Toliara, Chez Micheline Rest House

    6

Isalo

    7

Isalo

    8

Fianarantsoa

    9

Fianaransoa

    10

Ranamofana — The hotel burn down, move to other hotel night

    11

Ranamofana — The massage and hot pool day; Hotely Ravinala

    12

Ranamofana — The Dutch arrive; Hotely Ravinala

    13

Ranamofana — Hotely Ravinala

    14

Antananarivo

    15

Antananarivo

 

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Suid Africa (2nd time; 54 nights)

January 1999        

    16

Johanesburg — Enter South Africa — Johannesburg International Airport

    17

Kruger

    18

Kruger

    19

Kruger

    20

Pretoria (1)

    21

Pretoria (2)

    22

Pretoria (3)

    23

Pretoria (4)

    24

Pretoria (5)

    25

Pretoria (6) — The Todd's leave

    26

 

    27

 

    28

 

    29

 

    30

 

    31

 

 

February 1999        

    1

 

    2

The Lion Farm

    3

The Lion Farm

    4

 

    5

Orange River

    6

Orange River

    7

Coleburg

    8

The South African Farmhouse

    9

Port Eliazbeth

    10

Jeffery's Bay

    11

Jeffery's Bay

    12

Jeffery's Bay

    13

Jeffery's Bay

    14

Jeffery's Bay

    15

Jeffery's Bay

    16

Jeffery's Bay

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Jeffery's Bay

    18

Jeffery's Bay

    19

Wilderness

    20

 

    21

Cape Town

    22

Cape Town

    23

Cape Town

    24

Cape Town

    25

Cape Town

    26

Cape Town

    27

Cape Town

    28

Cape Town

 

March 1999        

    1

Cape Town

    2

Cape Town

    3

Cape Town

    4

Cape Town, Table Mountain with Jessie (ticket stub)

    5

Cape Town

    6

Cape Town

    7

Cape Town

    8

Cape Town

    9

Cape Town

    10

Cape Town — My last night in Africa

    11

Exit South Africa (Cape Town International Airport); fly to Johannesburg; fly over Madagascar; fly over Maritius; land in Malaysia — but that's a different story

 

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